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Erçiş and Deliçay

Posted Fri, 20 Feb 2015 10:04:26 GMT Turkey Traveling "Kurdistan"

I wanted to go to Van for some days, but couldn't find a host, as most students did have holidays and went to the west. But I got offered to go to Erciş, a city north of Van at Van Gölü (Van lake). The person who organized my stay, Hasan, and all my hosts there couldn’t speak english, so I communicated via a Facebook group chat with a girl who translated everything between me and Hasan.

At my first host in Erciş, Kardin (a cousin of Hasan), I stayed in a shared flat with three students who could talk maybe 10 words of english. We communicated with dictionaries, hands and foots. We even managed to play a nice round of Okey. The students didn't have warm water, so we went to a Hamam for taking a bath.

  • Lots of shoe cleaners

  • My hosts in Erciş were very clean

At the second day I met some more cousins and uncles of Hasan (he has 120 cousins) and we went to a small village called Deliçay. There I met more family members and I slept in a classic kurdish living room with lots of carpets and cushions and one coal oven in the center of the room.

I had dinner and breakfast with them and realized, that only men ate together. The women and girls were cooking, bringing the food and tea to the "table" and cleaned up afterwards. While we had dinner someone spilled his tea, a young girl came, cleaned up and brought a new tea for him.

I confronted the men with that realization and my opinion of it being very old fashioned behavior. They said they know how it is in the western world, but they don't see why they should change it. It's a lazy life for them at home. After getting huge amounts of children, the women stay at home their whole life anyways.

It was positiv though, that I could talk freely about it and they were very open for discussion. Sadly we couldn't really discuss it further as we had strong language barriers, there was only one person who could talk little english in the whole family.

  • The family who hosted me in Deliçay

  • Where's the food?

  • Girl cleaning after dinner

  • Living room converted into bedroom

Diyarbakır

Posted Wed, 18 Feb 2015 09:42:34 GMT Turkey Traveling "Kurdistan"

When I arrived in Diyarbakır, my host changed again. I stayed in the most dirty flat I've ever been to. My host was a bit of a sociopath, always talking to his "angels". His flat was close to a park where there was once again celebrations for the liberation of Kobanı with fireworks and life music.

Well it fitted good to the image I got of the former capital of "Kurdistan". It's a rough and dirty city, lots of destroyed houses by earthquakes and fights. The old city is surrounded by an old city wall which is so huge it houses many small cafés and shops.

  • ..a tea café on top..

  • Lots of broken houses

The police was not using normal police cars, they are only present in water guns and tank like cars. Additionally there was lots of military with helicopters, tanks and heavy armed soldiers all around the city. It didn't give me a feeling of being at a save place at all.

Syrian refugees were at every street corner and were living in coal heated tents in the parks and green spots of the city.

  • A typical police car in Diyarbakır

  • Celebrations for the liberation of Kobanî‎

Gercüş and Hasankeyf

Posted Mon, 16 Feb 2015 15:07:32 GMT Turkey Traveling "Kurdistan"

I hitchhiked to (nanananana) Batman as I found a couch there via Couchrail (Facebook group for Couchsurfing in turkey). I wanted to visit Hasankeyf which is 30km south of Batman. When I arrived I heard my couch has changed to another person in a small village close to Hasankeyf: Gercüş. My host picked me up in Batman and we went back south to Gercüş.

My host in Gercüş owned the villages "Kültür Cafe" with internet café, Playstations and lots of tea. We played some PES and TEKKEN and I met some former PKK members with whom I had good discussions about "Kurdistan", Erdoğan and capitalism. Eventually the gifted me a kurdish ring and Keffiyeh (kurdish scarf) and gave me a kurdish name, "Bahoz", as they couldn't remember my european name.

At the day I arrived in Gercüş, Kobanı was liberated from Işid (turkish name for Isis), which was followed by lots of celebrations all over the kurdish areas with fireworks and life music until late in the night (about 21:00).

  • PES after dinner

  • Some local folks, they gave me my Kurdish name: Bahoz

The next day me and the cousin of my host, went for a day trip to Hasankeyf. Hasankeyf is a old kurdish city which will be submerged soon when the new dam is finished.

In Gercüş we went to a Çay Cafe, a place where there's only men playing Tabla and Okey, a game similar to Rommee. I was taught Okey and played a round (7 games) with some locals. At these places you always play for the tea bill which isn't getting to expensive as one tea costs about 10 Eurocents.

  • Hasankeyf

  • Hüseyins cousin, Sedat, and me above Hasankeyf

  • Muuuhh

  • A turkish tea house: Playing Tabla and Okey - no women allowed!

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